Be ahead of the upcoming fashion. People will wake up to Pipe sleeved dress in coming times. A Long dress with cross wide stand collar is something unusual and would be taken with awe, so be ahead of your fashion times.
Let’s make a suit for winters. This fabric, which I have used is woolen mix. It’s not sturdy but a bit free flowing.
Full Length – shoulder till the length you desire
Waist Length – Shoulder till hollow of your waist or mid of your waist
Hip Length – Till the widest part of hip
Shoulder – One shoulder bone till another
Chest – around the widest part
Waist – around the slimmest mid part / if it’s no more slim, it’s okay- measure around it.
Hip – around the widest part of hip
Armhole – either wrap the measuring tape around your armhole and know otherwise calculate by formula given.
Sleeve length – shoulder bone till wrist. We’ll add 9″ to this length to get a gather/ruffled or chudidar look of sleeve.
Sleeve bottom round – wrap around your wrist with some ease, so you could easily wear and remove this sleeve.
So, these are the measurements your need to cut this dress.Now, we –
- Lay the fabric single fold. Wrong side out.
- Cut front bodice part first.
- Take full length + 1/2″ + 2.5″. This 2.5″ is for bottom fold hemming. When we want a nice finish for the garment, we do hem. If you want a machine stitch on the bottom, add 1″ only. That would be enough.
- Neck length = Chest / 12 +1/4″.
- Armhole length or Chest/4-1.5″.
- Waist length +1/2″ that is generally 14+1/2″
- Hip length +1/2″ that is generally 21+1/2″.
Width wise –
- Shoulder/2 +1/2″.
- Neck width = Chest / 12. Generally it’s 2.5″ to 3″.
- Chest/4+1/2″. If fabric is thick, keep it Chest/4+3/4″.
- At least Waist/4+1/4″ or 1/2″, depending on thickness of fabric or looseness you desire.
- Bottom same as hip/4 + 1/2″.
Sleeves would be cut as the simple sleeve but the only difference is that it would have an extension of 9″ beyond your wrist/bottom.
Sleeves would be made sleeker that the normal sleeves to fit it well.
If you are making wrist hugging sleeve bottom, then don’t forget to keep a slit for hook or button for ease of wearing and removing your sleeve.
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