YOU'LL GET TO KNOW
- What is Facing / Buckram ?
- How to Use Facing in Dress Making?
- How to Protect Facing / Buckram from Moisture?
WHAT IS FACING / BUKRAM
KNOWING THE RIGHT WAY OF DOING A THING MAKES OUR WORK MORE SMOOTH AND SMART.
IT’S NOT NECESSARY THAT WE COMMIT ALL THE MISTAKES OURSELVES AND THEN LEARN THE EXPENSIVE WAY. SOMETIMES, IT MAKES MORE SENSE THAT WE LEARN BY THE EXPERIENCE OF OTHERS AND LEARN THE EASY WAY.
WHAT IS FACING?
Facing is piece of material which we use to give strength to the inside of our dress. Facing is generally used around the neckline and armholes for a neat and tidy finishing.
For facing, any thicker fabric or material such as canvas or Buckram can be used. They are available in big sheet like form or we can also buy them in different pre-cut, ready-to-use shapes for different purposes. Different neckline shapes and rolls are commonly available.
WHAT IS BUKRAM?
Buckram is thickened or stiffened coarse cloth, which is used for interfacing. Interfacing is the process when we sandwich this Buckram between two sheets of fabric to give a neat finishing to our necklines, collar, cuff etc.
With moisture or after watch, buckram gets softer.
We use Buckram for interfacing quite frequently therefore, we would be referring to facing as buckram.
HOW TO USE FACING IN DRESS MAKING?
While stitching collar, cuff, high neck, belt – an additional thick layer of fabric is cut and placed inside to give an stiff and smart appearance.
- This facing sheet or canvas is available in your stitching supplies’ store in different thicknesses. Depending on the stiffness you require, you may choose it.
- It is available in paper pasting sheet,used for making designs.
- Canvas is used for making cuff,shirt collar etc.
- White and black are commonly used and available colors economically. You will get them easily. While you use lighter shades of fabric, use white buckram for facing. Whereas, when you use darker shades of fabric, use black interfacing.
- Facing comes in a wide sheet or you may get it in different cut pieces in the shape of neck, collar etc. Cut pieces are more expensive if you stitch quite frequently but if you stitch only sometimes they make a better bargain as you don’t need to store them consciously every time you use.
- While marking and cutting your facing/canvas, use exact measurement. No additional margin required because this facing will go inside the fabric and there will not be any stitching required on it. The fabric would be cut 1/4″ or 1/2″ extra around the buckram facing.
- Additional margin for stitching and folding will be on upper and lower cloth and not on facing.
HOW TO SAVE FACING / BUCKRAM FROM MOISTURE
Canvas and paper pasting gets a little soggy during rainy days or in times of not storing it properly.
In such a situation, dry your canvas and paper pasting under the Sun for an hour. On ironing, canvas will again be stiff to be used again.
If your facing is with glue on other side, be careful while using iron. The glued side of facing will paste on your ironing table cloth. Ideally, iron it only when you are using it on your design or on desired fabric.
Paper pasting do not stand direct heat because it’s comparatively very thin. You need to keep a cotton cloth on it to iron. Here also, be careful about the glued side.
While storing your facing, either keep it flat on a surface or roll it up.
Store it out of moist climate conditions in a dry place because it absorbs moisture from the environment.
Steam iron spoils the facing glue. If even a drop of water drips from your steam iron then it will spoil the stickiness of the facing.
If water drips when your steam iron is on, then set the iron on dry mode and keep the heat low(CHECK THE HEAT REQUIREMENT)